6am and penguin time arrived but the warning light was now continually on so, following the rental agreement instructions, we called the NZ AA equivalent and waited. Two hours later they rocked up to tell us that there was a leak, the problem had been 'bodged' before but we hadn't lost all the water so a slow leak. We needed the approval of the van owner to either get this fixed or carry on and hope it didn't get worse. The owner approved the carry on option, no surprise there, so we sadly started making our way out of the Catlins in search of a rear light bulb, which apparently could only be found in Invercargill. We were gutted, we'd missed our chance at seeing the Yellow Eyed penguins, Hector's Dolphins and more Sea lions. We had also been ferociously attacked by NZ sand flies before dark the previous day and now had feet that looked like raspberries and itched like you would not believe (the little bar stewards drew blood!) On the off chance we stopped at a minuscule garage and, miracle upon miracle they had THE bulb! We raced back to Waipapa Bay just in time to enjoy some sea lions having an afternoon nap followed by
a little friendly ruck between one enormous male and one distinctly inferior male who rapidly froze and then flippered it for the ocean.
Reluctantly leaving we headed to Slope Point and more wind than even the Braund brothers can supply but
the most southerly point of mainland South Island (Matt looking like the first POM arrival)
and even more stupendous views.
We also hit the jackpot at Porpoise Bay as we watched Hector's Dolphins swim up and down whilst the odd swimmer tried desperately to catch their attention. You can just make out two black fins behind the wave, I can prove they are Hector's with video evidence, although I admit to lacking full facial snaps.
Curio Bay was our final destination in the Catlins but a very important one, home to the Yellow Eyed penguin breeding ground. There are only 5,000 of these little guys remaining in New Zealand and none in the rest of the world so very much an endangered species. The penguins had picked their breed sight well and chosen the only petrified forest remains in New Zealand to really secure their safety.
Unlike many penguins these are solitary nesters, requiring a beach edged with bush in which to build their nests and raise their chicks away from predators and humans alike.
After three hours standing watching in the freezing cold we eventually saw this lone penguin pop out of the ocean (about 8pm) and stand, for what seemed like an hour preening and probably re-orienting himself. More followed but each headed in separate directions along the beach.
The first penguin then hopped and waddled his way over the rocks (do they make that look tortuous or what), eventually hopping into the bush and disappeared from view.
Our day had started out in disappointment but ended on such a high, another lesson in 'you never know what's around the corner'. Very very cold we drove away from the penguins and parked up at a freedom site down the road. Our days in the campervan so far have been totally packed from sunrise to sunset and beyond, we are tired, cold and the van has no luxuries but we can honestly say 'today has been an awesome day' with a big cheesy grin.
PS I'm buying a sleeping bag tomorrow and b******s to the budget :D
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