Such an unusual and pretty town, it is easy to see why so many travellers have enjoyed their time in Hoi An. The old town exudes personality and a mix of Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese heritage. The river snakes through the town creating additional drama and atmosphere to the shops, bars and restaurants along its bank. The streets are awash with colour from the walls of the buildings, market stalls and shops to the Chinese lanterns which hang like necklaces. Still being the wet season the sky is grey and rain falls intermittently but it doesn't dampen our impression or enjoyment.
This wiley old fruit seller poured on the charm (just look at that face) and managed to get Matt buying bananas he didn't really want. A real master of her trade, no hassling, no gimmicks just a gummy smile, hunched and shuffling, once eye contact was made he was In the bag. The only bartering then was to reduce the number of bananas from a massive bunch to just three...she conceded eventually, happy with the sale.
Back on the bikes as many of Hoi An's streets are pedestrian and cycling only but don't be surprised when mopeds still hurtle towards you...there is no escape. It is great to be back in the saddle again although our backsides don't think so! The bikes are available free of charge at most guesthouses/homestays but the saddles are somewhat basic and all seem to be at the oddest angle. It can be a little unnerving at first mixing with the traffic and having the confidence (sheer balls) to indicate your direction by road position alone. Show any hesitation and you're a gonner, a bit like commuting in London but you can't understand the swearing!
The old Japanese Coverd bridge in the middle of town and always rammed with people hustling each way.
Streets upon streets of traders, tailoring is famous here and there is lots of competition. The only shame is that all the non-tailoring shops sell the same products so it is all a bit dejavu. Bartering in Vietnam also seems a big no no on the whole and prices not cheap so budget travellers not as welcome.
The old buildings are either converted to shops, restaurants or open to view as historical sites.
You can buy a ticket to the old town which provides access to your chosen five historical sites and the proceeds go towards the conservation of the town. We visited the Museum of Folk Culture:
Phuc Kien Assembly hall
Minh Huong Communal house
and the beautiful Tan Ky old house with mother of pearl inlaid furniture and columns. During the wet season many of these old buildings are completely flooded with the ground floor levels completely submerged. I know that is only four but I can't remember number five!
Whilst Hoi An town itself is lovely, cycling out of town gets you away from the masses and into the peaceful and lush countryside. We enjoyed a trip to the Coconut Palm forest and a tour in the round bamboo boats used by the locals for crab fishing.
These coconut trees are grown for their fronds, not the fruit, used for building and utensils. The fruit is a bit like tiny coconuts joined together to form a round 'flower' and these are left to naturally propagate.
Our boatman made us two headdresses, rings and a grasshopper out of the coconut fronds, the grasshopper was amazing. We do look like a couple of tourist plums though...
We've had some fabulous food in Hoi An but two particular local specialities I have to mention:
'White Roses' (Banh Bao) a type of shrimp dumpling, the recipe of which is only known by one family in Hoi An. Done correctly these are delicious, served with a light sauce and look like a white rose...well sort of!
Cao Lau is a fat noodle, thinly sliced roast pork and local greens dish served in a soy sauce type sauce and also traditionally includes peanuts and topped with pork crackling. The homestay we are staying with have this as a breakfast option (included in the price) and we have been having it for breakfast every day. Firstly, no the bid to lose a few pounds is not going well. Secondly, the first morning (despite them understanding about my nut allergy) what did I find at the bottom of my bowl but peanut city! Luckily for all concerned I had mixed first, they had forgotten and were mortified bless them!
This was our first time using a 'homestay' which in effect means staying in a local's home. In reality these are far from basic and the housing conditions experienced by many in Vietnam. The family we are staying with are lovely, five rooms available to rent and whilst they have little English we have all cobbled through. I bought them these flowers just to say thank you and loved the fact they come complete with roots...Matt reckoned they'd been lifted from the town square!
Hoi An is lovely, we've explored the town, the river, out of town including one of the beaches (construction city and definitely not ready for sunbathing or even walking!) Whilst we've still experienced hard selling and money scams, the place makes you a little more forgiving. With Chinese New Year looming on the 19th February we are against the clock to get South so that we don't get stuck during the potential ten days of celebrations. Moving to Can Tho tomorrow (8th February) for easy access to explore the Mekong Delta, away from the rain and into the heat.
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