Finding a really cheap flight from Hanoi to Denang for £17 each we were feeling pretty smug! Originally we were looking at a sixteen hour overnight train to Hue for £22 each but taking the flight and then just a three hour train journey on to Hue would work out the same price but a third of the time...genius. We left the hotel at 6.30 in the morning, as advised, to ensure enough check-in time and all was looking good, the gate displayed the right flight and time. Take off time came and went, we were told there was a slight delay and the flight would leave an hour late. In an hour we were told just another hours delay. Eventually we were told the plane had suffered mechanical problems and would now leave at 19.30...bum! Passenger frenzy ensued, lots of headless chickens hitting the 'Jetstar Pacific' desk at speed, to the complete horror of the desk staff. Queues morphed out of chaos so we took our place for a refund and once received checked out other available flights. Finding one for 15.30 (enabling enough time to catch the last train to Hue) and only another $5 so Matt started the online purchase process. To his growing frustration he kept being rejected at the final stage as the new airline increased their prices...it was now a race against the airline and other passengers desperately trying for an earlier flight. To end a probably dull story for you guys, we eventually took off and made the last train (losing our pre-booked tickets on the earlier train) to Hue finally arriving at 21.45, costing us an extra £30 and taking about the same time, blinding!
Hue is an unusual place, home to the Citadel (built between 1804 and 1833) comprising temples, residences and gardens for the Nguyen emperors . Outside of the Citadel is a smorgasbord of hotels, bars, restaurants, trips and transport to meet the hoards of tourist needs. Saying "no thank you" to the relentless offers is not received well resulting in either continual repetition or scowls, and even in some cases quite aggressive behaviour. Fortunately, once inside the Citadel these interruptions were minimal. Ngo Mon Gateway and entry to the Citadel:
Dien Tho residence with colossal bronze urns and comprising apartment and audience halls for the Queen Mothers of the Nguyen dynasty.
Thai Hoa palace for the emperor's official receptions and ceremonies
And another part of Dien Tho residence of the Nguyen dynasty Queen Mothers.
The Citadel is really impressive, a maze of moats, gardens and buildings in various states of renovation due to age and bombing during the war. The next day we hired a moped and headed out of town to visit a couple of the Nguyen emperor tombs and enjoy some of the peaceful countryside. Khai Dinh, mausoleum to the 12th emperor was really impressive
The Mandarin statues protecting the tomb and someone thinking I haven't noticed him creeping into the photo.
Minh Mang tomb, mausoleum to the 2nd emperor was set in the middle of a series of lakes in about 15 hectares of trees and countryside.
Due to our later than planned arrival we ended up staying three nights in Hue. We both had mixed feelings on leaving, whilst the Citadel and surrounding countryside was beautiful we felt quite worn down by the constant harassment to buy anything and everything. Money scams are also rife, something we first experienced in Hanoi, these include giving the wrong change, if you notice then taking some notes back, giving different ones and then swapping again until you're are not sure what the hell has happened. Over charging is common place or swapping your order to something more expensive but looks the same! We try to steer clear of tours as much as possible, due to expense and tourist numbers, but trying to make your own way in Vietnam so far seems frowned upon and cheaper more independent options not always welcomed. We have heard wonderful things about Hoi An from other travellers so time for another journey.
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